Survival Tools Breakdown. Axes, Knives, Saws and Gear That Keep Me Alive

The Cutting Tools That Actually Matter (And Why A Lot Of People Get It Wrong)

So there I was, standing next to my truck looking at the cutting tools that live in there permanently - not staged for some fancy photo shoot, but the ones I actually grab when work needs to get done. And it hit me: most people are completely overthinking their cutting tool selection while missing the tools that would actually save their bacon when it matters.

Look, I get it. Walk into any outdoor store and you'll be bombarded with a thousand different options, each claiming to be the ultimate survival blade. But after years of using and abusing cutting tools in the real world, I can tell you that the difference between having the right tool and the wrong one isn't just about convenience - it's about whether you get the job done or spend all day fighting with inadequate gear.

Let me break down what actually works and why most people are making the wrong choices.

The Machete Reality Check

Alright, let's start with machetes because they're probably my favorite cutting tool, and I know that's going to trigger some axe purists out there. This ON3 machete that I designed with Bear Forest Knives might be my favorite blade I've ever owned, and yeah, I might be a little biased since it's my design, but I'm just trying to tell you it's probably the best one out there.

Here's why machetes dominate in my world: I live in Georgia, and where I live, there's lots of loose, hanging, viney briars and stuff where having that extra reach comes in really handy. A machete allows you to get down there and cut briars and thorns and clear your campsite out really efficiently without having to bend over constantly.

Now, a lot of people love axes, and I'm no different - I think an axe is a really valuable tool. But where I live, personally speaking, I find myself grabbing a machete way more often simply because of the environment. Your results may vary, but efficiency matters when you're trying to get work done.

I always wrap paracord on my blades so I can choke up closer to the center balance point, and that allows me to do more delicate small carving and chopping tasks. It makes the tool more multi-purpose and versatile.

The Axe Lesson I Learned the Hard Way

Check this out: I've got two axes here, and neither one of them is expensive. This Fiskars I've had for at least 20 years - probably longer. I think I might have been in high school when I bought this thing for about 30 bucks. It's made in Finland, has a pretty much indestructible handle, and just like my truck, you can't break the thing.

I use it for pounding stuff, beating on construction projects where I need to move a post with a thousand pounds of weight sitting on top of it. I'll take this axe and smack the crap out of it, and it just keeps working.

But here's the thing about axes - they can really hurt you if you're not paying attention. I was chopping wood one time, on my knees, working through a branch with a small hatchet. My brother looks at me and asks, "Hey, is that thing sharp?" I chop, look up at him, and say "Yep." The axe glances off the wood and goes straight into my leg, right above my kneecap.

Cut through my pants, laid my leg wide open like cutting into a raw steak. So much for the Thanksgiving Day party we were having - I needed stitches instead.

The Tools That Actually Get Work Done

Get this: if we're talking about getting firewood efficiently, it's really hard to beat a saw. This Silky Big Boy right here is just about the perfect portable but big-enough size where I can get some really good-sized firewood going. This thing can cut through a lot of firewood in a really short period of time, and it's a whole lot safer than swinging an axe around.

You can get cut with a saw for sure, and they're nasty looking when it happens, but rarely is it lethal. With an axe, you've got all that heavy weight with a razor's edge flying around at high speed - if it glances off at an inappropriate angle at an inappropriate time, it can really hurt you.

The Knife Philosophy That Changes Everything

Listen, I'm a fixed blade kind of guy. If you're talking about knives, I like fixed blade knives because they're so much simpler, more durable, and they're going to stand up to hard use. It's a lifetime tool, a lifetime investment, and I appreciate that.

This ON3 EDC knife I designed is big enough to get 99.9% of knife jobs done, but small enough to carry every single day without even noticing it's there. It's got a two-and-three-quarter-inch blade and a three-and-three-quarter-inch handle - big enough to get your whole paw wrapped around it.

The steel is 52100 ball bearing steel with a convex edge, which makes it last a long time without having to resharpen the thing. Talk to any guy out there that uses and abuses his tools - not a collector, not some bushcrafter doing fine feather sticks and posing for Instagram pictures (I'm not picking on anybody, but I'm picking on you) - ask anybody who really uses their tools: a convex edge is really handy.

I've cut insulation with this knife. I've pried paint cans open. I've pulled staples out of boards. I field dressed a deer from walking around being Bambi to in the freezer - took a deer from start to finish with this knife and never had a single complaint.

The Emergency Backup That Fits in Your Belt

Now let's talk emergency stuff. You've lost everything, you're lost in the middle of the wilderness surrounded by aliens, life as we know it is coming to an end, and you've got nothing but you need to figure out a way to survive.

If I'm wearing pants, I'm typically wearing a belt. I choose to wear a Wazoo cash belt because it's got all the necessities and I can carry it every single day without even knowing I've got it on. It's like an insurance policy.

In my belt, I have a spare blade and a fire starter - a small ferro rod and a teeny tiny ceramic blade. Trust me when I tell you this thing is sharp. It's scalpel sharp with a chisel grind, and this thing is wicked sharp. It'll lay you open if you're not careful because of how sharp it is.

I've cut through pretty good-sized saplings about this big with this tiny thing. I've gutted fish, cut paracord, done fire prep, created tinder - you name it. It's ceramic, so it's brittle and you've got to be careful with it, but there's nothing sharper out there. The sharpest scalpels on the planet are made out of either obsidian or ceramic like this.

The Multi-Tool Reality

Okay, let's talk multi-tools. I like them, I think they're great, but they're a little big and bulky and heavy to carry in your pocket all the time. So I don't carry them on my person, but I do keep them handy - in the door of my truck, in my packs, close by.

The knives on multi-tools are typically stainless steel, not that easy to sharpen, and there's a little bit of wonkiness and wobbliness in the blade because it's a folder. But if you need to cut tape, cut some cordage, scribe something, poke something, gouge something, the blade will get the job done.

This Leatherman Rev might be the cheapest Leatherman out there - I think they're like 40 bucks. But that pair of pliers alone with the wire cutters is just about the handiest thing on the multi-tool.

The Unconventional Tool That Surprised Me

Here's thinking outside the box a little bit: it doesn't have to be a knife or axe to be a cutting tool. This Russian special forces shovel is pretty handy actually. This happens to be a titanium one, super lightweight, and it's not going to rust on you. I can throw it into the ocean and it won't rust, which is really nice because I like low maintenance.

I don't like to work on stuff, I don't want to oil everything up all the time, I like it when it just stays the way it is. A shovel like this is pretty handy for a lot of situations. Is it as good as a great big full-size shovel? Absolutely not. But which one would you want to carry if you had to carry it?

Having a small portable shovel, I can get a lot of work done in a very short period of time. I can do some light chopping, some hacking, just like you could do with a machete - not quite as well, but it gets the job done. It's kind of a multi-tool, and I do like that. A very robust, strong, sturdy, simple multi-tool.

The Sharpening Secret Most People Miss

Listen, I keep it simple when it comes to sharpening. I use a fine diamond stone with two sides - coarse and fine. I almost never use the coarse side except maybe on machetes if I hit a rock. I use the fine side and just very lightly touch up my edge with a few strokes.

Generally speaking, that gets it back to where it needs to be, to a serviceable edge where it scrapes my thumbnail. That's what I do with all my cutting tools - just a few strokes on a diamond stone and it's back in action.

Having a 90-degree sharp spine on the back of your knife is pretty important because while you can scrape and scratch things with the blade edge, having that sharp spine saves the edge. If you're scraping something at 90 degrees to the blade, eventually you're going to get that thing pretty dull.

What Actually Matters in the Real World

Get this: my probably most-used cutting tool is the ON3 EDC that I keep on my belt because it's handy, convenient, and always there. Next to that, maybe a machete - I probably use my machete more than any other cutting tool.

An axe from time to time, not that much, but when I need firewood specifically, that saw is hard to beat. The point is, you need to match your tools to your environment and your actual needs, not what looks cool or what some YouTube bushcrafter says you should have.

Most people collecting knives and tools are like the guys with a hundred guns in the closet who haven't shot any of them and can't hit the broad side of a barn. They'll tell you they can do amazing things, but when it comes time to actually use the tools, reality hits different.

The difference between having cutting tools and knowing how to use cutting tools effectively is the difference between getting work done and spending all day frustrated with inadequate results.

What's your take on cutting tools? Are you a machete person, an axe person, or do you swear by something completely different? Let me know in the comments what actually works in your environment - specifics welcome.

P.S. Forward this newsletter to someone who needs to hear it. The prepping and survival community is filled with fantasies - let's spread some reality instead.

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The Best Budget Survival Blades: Field-Tested Picks That Actually Work

You are deep in the Georgia woods, red clay under your boots, humidity so thick you could chew it, and all you have is a ten-dollar knife and a stubborn rooster named Nugget pecking at your shoelaces. A lot of folks would panic. Me? That’s just another Tuesday. Maybe that's an exaggeration but have been there and done that more times that I can count on two hands.

I am Jason Salyer. Thirty years in the backwoods, fifteen years prepping, former Division I strength coach, Navy Special Warfare contractor, and a guy who has learned the hard way that faith, fitness, and fortitude matter more than fancy gear. I have run 130 miles on a bike, spent more nights in the wild than I can count, and let me tell you the best survival blade is not always the one with the biggest price tag.

Today, I am giving you the honest truth about budget survival blades. What actually works when the chips are down.

Why Budget Blades Might Save Your Bacon

Let’s get this out of the way. I love a good custom knife as much as the next gear junkie. But if you are sweating bullets about dropping half your paycheck on a blade, you are missing the point. The best knife is the one you have when it matters.

Are you making this mistake, thinking price equals performance? I have seen ten-dollar knives outlast two-hundred-dollar tactical wonders. When you are scraping fatwood for a fire or hacking through swamp roots, you want a tool you are not afraid to use and abuse. I am not saying all $10-20 knives are good. That's far from the truth. There are some that have amazed me though.

The Mora 511: Your $10 Ticket to Survival

Let’s start with the backbone of my kit. The Mora 511. Carbon steel blade, razor sharp straight out of the package, bombproof plastic handle. Try to break one of these things. Go ahead, I dare you. It is not easy.

Yes, they have a plastic handle and it is not a full tang blade, but try and break one. It is not easy. You can really use and abuse these things. And for a ten-dollar knife, that is what we paid for this thing, ten dollars. For the price, I think it is pretty much impossible to beat the Mora 511.

It is a blade that is inexpensive but will last you a long, long time. They come with a decent sheath. Decent retention, clips onto your belt, hard to beat them. As far as a budget blade goes in the fixed blade category, that is my choice right there, the Mora 511.

What’s your take on the Mora? Is it your go-to, or are you a knife snob who would not be caught dead with plastic? Drop your answer in the comments. I want to hear your story.

Opinel No. 8: The Classy Folder That Punches Above Its Weight

Now, for the folding knife crowd. The Opinel No. 8. Made in France, wooden handle, convex edge that is sharper than my grandma’s tongue. Lightweight, simple, and you can customize the handle to make it yours. I carved mine up, slapped on some linseed oil, and now it has more character than most folks you meet at a Georgia gas station.

It is not a one-hand opener, but who cares? It is twenty bucks, and it may last you a lifetime. For fine woodwork or just whittling by the fire, this knife is a joy.

That convex grind makes it extremely slicey. For carving chores, if you want to do some fine woodwork carving, the Opinel No. 8 is an excellent choice. I think I prefer this grind, that full convex, over the Scandi grind you get on a Mora. It is actually easier to sharpen the full convex than the Scandi. If you are just sharpening these by hand, eventually it is going to probably turn into somewhat of a convex grind anyway.

Leatherman Rev: The Multi-Tool That Does It All (On a Budget)

You cannot talk survival without a good multi-tool. Enter the Leatherman Rev. Forty bucks, fits in your pocket, and gives you pliers, screwdrivers, and a stainless blade that is sharp enough for any camp chore. Is it the most comfortable for long whittling sessions? Not really. But when you need to fix gear, cut cordage, or open a can, it is a lifesaver.

I picked mine up at Home Depot, but you can find them online. Easy to sharpen, locks up solid, and if you lose it, you are not crying in your tent.

Are you a multi-tool believer, or do you stick with a single blade? Tell me what is in your pocket right now.

You can grab this multitool in links below and the other blades as well.

Tramontina Machete: The Big Chopper That Won’t Break the Bank

Let’s talk big blades. My pick? The Tramontina 18-inch machete. Twenty bucks at Home Depot, cheaper if you buy in bulk. I have bought twenty at a time, handed them out to buddies, and never looked back.

I mod mine with a paracord wrap, convex edge, and a custom PVC sheath I made in the oven. It is ugly, but it works. Chop wood, dig roots, slice, dice, whatever. I have even used the back of the blade to dig in rocky Georgia clay. When Nugget the chick craps on the handle, I just wipe it off and keep going. Try that with a three-hundred-dollar bushcraft blade.

I made a custom PVC sheath for mine out of a big drain pipe. Heated it up in the oven, formed it around the machete, and added webbing from a tie-down strap. It drains easy in the swamp and does not hold water on the blade. Simple, tough, and way better than the stock sheath.

Why I Love Beating Up Cheap Tools

Here is the truth. I love using and abusing budget blades. If I break one, lose one, or Nugget takes a dump on it, I do not lose sleep. I get to customize them, make them my own, and I am not afraid to put them through hell.

I have spent years in the wild, from trail running the Georgia backwoods to Special Operations contracts and everything in between. The gear that survives is the gear that matters—not the gear that looks good on Instagram.

Are you customizing your tools, or babying them because they cost too much? Which camp are you in? Sound off in the comments.

The Real Prepper’s Edge: Practical Beats Pretty Every Time

You do not need a drawer full of expensive knives to be ready. You need a tool you trust, one you are not afraid to use, and the skills to make it work. I have sharpened blades on creek rocks, fixed handles with duct tape, and made sheaths out of whatever I had lying around.

What is the most creative way you have fixed or customized your gear in the field? Share your hacks below—I want to learn from this community.

Next time, I will show you how to turn a five-gallon bucket into a survival kit that will make your neighbors jealous. But that is a story for another day.

If you break one, damage one, lose one, your heart is not broken. It is not that big of a deal. There is something about the inexpensive tools like this that you just do not worry about. I like customizing them, putting my own marks on them because maybe you would not want to do that with a two-hundred-dollar knife. You would not want to make it your own. You are afraid to customize it a little bit. But with a cheap machete like this one, Nugget crapped on my handle. If your chick craps on your blade, it is not that big a deal because you did not have that much invested into it. I can customize my machetes and I like the wooden handles for that reason. I like the bomb-proof plastic handle here on the Moras. I like the simplicity. I like the durability. And I like that I did not have to invest much money into it.

So in the comment section, let me know what your go-to budget blade is. Budget blades, everything from the big choppers all the way down to the folders that fit in the pocket. Let me know what your go-to is. Let me know what your favorite is of these choices that I have listed right here and why you like using the budget blades. Or are you the knife snob and you just refuse to use the budget blades and you will never be caught dead with a plastic handle Mora like this one? Let me know. I want to hear about that in the comment section. I would be happy to jump in there and have a little conversation with you.

Until next time, friends, what is the worst that could happen? Let’s just go on three.

P.S. Share this newsletter with someone who needs to hear it. The prepping and survival community is filled with fantasies. Let's spread some reality instead.

Check Out My Recommended Gear & Supplies
Explore the gear and supplies I personally use and trust. When you purchase through my Amazon storefront and other affiliates, I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. These small commissions help support the creation of informative, free content for you to enjoy.

👉 Want more no-nonsense survival and prepper advice? Follow me for free resources:
🌐 Visit My Website: Your complete survival guide – tactical gear reviews, prepper tips, emergency preparedness training, wilderness adventure guides

📧 FREE Weekly Intel: Get my newsletter + podcast with prepper tips and survival gear reviews

🎥 YouTube: Watch survival tutorials, tactical gear reviews, survival challenges, and prepper how-tos

🛡️ Patreon: Join my prepper community + get exclusive survival guides and Q&A

🛒 Tested Gear on Amazon: Skip the guesswork with my tested gear and emergency supplies

👕 Merch: Rep the tactical lifestyle

💪 Fitness Channel: Tactical fitness and survival training workouts

---

Support small businesses + support my mission!
Shop these trusted small companies first – often same price or cheaper than Amazon. Supporting my affiliates helps fund free content.

🔗 Wazoo Survival Gear – Use code: GOON32025

🔪 Bear Forest Knives
• ON3 EDC
• ON3 Ulu
• ON3 Primitive
• ON3 Machete
Discount code: Salyer10

🧵 PNW Bushcraft

🔥 Exotac – Code: On3

I receive a small commission from all of my affiliates to help provide free content. Thanks!

How to Turn a $20 Tramontina Machete into a Survival Beast You’ll Actually Want to Use

There’s something special about a tool you’ve made or modified with your own hands. I’m not talking about buying a high-end blade with tactical etching and a price tag that makes your wallet cry. I’m talking about grabbing a $20 Tramontina machete, rolling up your sleeves, and turning it into something you can count on in the woods, in the yard, or when everything goes sideways.

If you’ve got some sandpaper, a file, a little linseed oil, and a willingness to get your hands dirty, you can take a cheap machete from blister factory to bushcraft-ready.

Let’s walk through exactly how I do it.

First Impressions: What You’re Working With

Right out of the box, the Tramontina machete is rough. It comes dull, like run-your-hand-along-the-blade dull. The kind of dull that makes you question if it’s even a cutting tool. It’s coated in a polyurethane clear coat to prevent rust, but honestly, it makes it look and feel like a cheap kitchen spatula. The handle? Also not winning any awards. It’s bulky, rough, and will rub your palm raw in no time.

But here’s the good news. That roughness? It’s opportunity. It’s like buying a fixer-upper with great bones. All it needs is a little care.

Tools You’ll Need.

If you're more visual then watch the full video here. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Yj1EXKS61U

Here’s what I use to turn this machete into something you’ll love:

4-in-1 wood rasp file
Sandpaper (80 grit and 120 grit)
Wet stone (diamond stone optional)
Boiled linseed oil
Yellow mustard (yes, seriously)
A bench vice (super helpful, but not required)
Paracord
Lighter
Wire brush
Optional: belt sander or grinder for speeding things up

Step 1: Fix That Handle

This is where most of the comfort comes from. Start with the rasp file to shape and contour the wood. That raised edge on the handle? It’s going to eat into your hand until either the machete breaks in or your hand gives up. Take that extra wood down to the tang using the flat side of the rasp. Once you’re close, switch to the finer side and then hit it with sandpaper.

Start with 80 grit, then move to 120 grit to finish. You don’t need a fine furniture finish. You just want smooth, rounded contours. Something that feels like it belongs in your hand, not something that makes you dread using it.

Pro tip: 120 grit is perfect. Any smoother and it starts getting slick when wet. And if you’re swinging this thing in the rain, that matters.

Step 2: Strip the Blade

Get rid of that factory clear coat. It’s not doing you any favors. You can file it off or hit it with a wire brush or belt sander. I like to get down to bare steel so I can do a forced patina later and let the blade age naturally over time.

This part takes a little patience, but when you see that raw steel come through, it’s worth it.

Step 3: Add a 90-Degree Spine

The factory spine won’t do much for scraping a ferro rod or processing bark. So I clean it up on the grinder to give it a crisp, sharp 90-degree edge. Now it throws sparks, scrapes tinder, and earns its keep.

Step 4: Modify the Grip Area

I like to grind off part of the blade near the handle so I can wrap it with paracord. This lets me choke up for finer tasks like controlled chopping or carving. It also gives me some emergency cordage if I need it.

Wrap about six feet of 550 paracord tight around the area and secure it with a loop tuck method. If you’re picky like I am, you’ll make sure every wrap is straight and tight. Melt the ends so it doesn’t fray, and you’re good.

Step 5: Submerge the Handle in Linseed Oil

Drop that cleaned-up handle into a jar of boiled linseed oil and let it soak. Five minutes is usually good. This fills the pores, tightens up the grain, and leaves you with a rich honey-colored finish that feels incredible.

Wipe off the excess and let it dry. Trust me, it’s going to look and feel like a whole different tool.

Step 6: Convex the Edge

Factory edge is a rough Scandi grind. It’s okay, but it’ll roll or chip with hard use. I prefer a convex edge—it’s tougher, holds longer, and doesn’t demand laser precision when sharpening in the field.

To do this, remove that hard line at the start of the grind. Gently round the bevel so the edge transitions smoothly. Then take your wet stone and hone it. No pressure, just let the machete’s weight do the work. Watch for the slurry—that’s when you know it’s working.

The convex shape makes it easier to maintain and more durable in the long run.

Step 7: Add the Mustard Patina

Here’s where it gets fun. Smear yellow mustard all over the bare blade in a swirl or tiger-stripe pattern. Let it sit for 30 minutes. The vinegar and salt in the mustard react with the steel, leaving a gnarly patina that helps prevent rust and adds character.

Wipe it off and admire the result. It gives the blade a lived-in, camo-style look. And the best part? With use, it’ll age even better.

Step 8: Sharpen That Bad Boy

Using your wet stone or diamond stone, finish sharpening until it shaves hair. Five minutes on the stone and a quick finish with the 1600 grit diamond stone will get it razor sharp.

Step 9: Modify the Sheath

The sheath that comes with the Tramontina? Not bad. It has a nylon exterior and some plastic rigidity inside, but the Velcro strap is junk. Cut it off, clean up the ends with a lighter, and rely on friction fit—especially with the paracord wrap added.

Velcro just doesn’t last in the field. Dirt, water, and wear will ruin it. Go friction fit and move on.

Let me know in the comments if you are going to try out this project.

Final Thoughts

This isn’t just a machete anymore. It’s your machete. You shaped it, tuned it, sharpened it, and turned it into something dependable. It’s the kind of project that makes using it that much more enjoyable.

Whether you’re clearing a trail, trimming trees, or living out of a bug-out location, this blade’s got your back. It’s not flashy. It’s not expensive. But it’s tough, tested, and totally yours.

Stay sharp.
Stay ready.
Go On Three!

Jason Salyer (On Three)

P.S. Forward this newsletter to someone who loves to save money!

Check Out My Recommended Gear & Supplies

Explore the gear and supplies I personally use and trust. When you purchase through my Amazon storefront and other affiliates, I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. These small commissions help support the creation of informative, free content for you to enjoy.

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